According to Women’s Wear Daily, Target is set to open a new 137,000-square-foot green model store in Stafford Township, NJ with a “prototype” natural beauty section featuring Avalon, Jason, Alba, Giovanni, Dr. Bronner’s and Burt’s Bees.
The store will be located in a new open air mall on the site of two former landfills and meets the standards of the Silver LEED Green Building rating system. Additionally, green Target will offer recycled plastic shopping carts and a park for the enjoyment of customers.
The retailer did not go on to name other types of green products that will be made available, in addition to the aforementioned natural beauty brands. I am curious about what new eco-friendly, natural, organic and green products will be added to the collection, considering my local (non-green) Target already carries Burt’s Bees, Jason, Avalon, Alba and Dr. Bronner’s as well as similar lines that were not named in the release.
Costa Rican workers sorting bananas for export to Europe
With mixed emotions I received the news that the latest (and perhaps last) Doha Round of trade talks came to a halt last Tuesday, after 9 days of negotiations pitting rich vs. poor: the G7 and a block of developing countries known as the G33. Needless to say, the poor lost. Although, I would argue, we all end up losing in the end, as the world begins to suffer the throws of the latest food crisis, no doubt the result of an unjust world market system that favors the interests of wealthy economies.
“At a time when prices are volatile, developing countries were right to fight for the flexibility to defend their smallest farmers and ensure food security”
- Jeremy Hobbs, Oxfam International
According to Oxfam International, the collapse was caused by “rich countries offering too little and making unreasonable demands in return.” The G33 defense was led by China and India, in particular, who was right to protect their farmers against the surge of heavily subsidized agricultural products from the US and EU. The US refusal (along with the mute consent of EU) to meet even the basic criteria that brought about the talks in the first place, made the current draft unacceptable, an insult to the dignity of the collective will of developing countries.
Advocacy organizations reacted to the news in different ways. Anti-globalization groups viewed the breakdown as a “as a triumph for farmers, workers and the poor around the globe and a blow against ‘big business.’” While others expressed disappointment, as they saw in the talks - which are hosted by the infamous World Trade Organization - a pragmatic way to guarantee a somewhat level playing field that would lift billions of people out poverty by allowing them to compete in a fair market.
Seven years have passed without an agreement, in which necessary objectives included the cut of subsidies from key sectors in developed countries as well as the lowering of importing tariffs in developing countries. The scheme was originally devised by global elites to prove that globalization truly works, that a strategic liberalization of trade regulations would bring stability and shared wealth to developing economies.
Now, as I hinted above, I’m not a fan of the WTO. I don’t think it is in the end a favorable venue for developing countries to seek economic justice. This latest defeat not only highlights the incredible, apparently insurmountable, obstacles developing countries must contend with, the greed and stubbornness of wealthy countries, but also the greater need for ethical trade reform for the sake of human survival itself. I should add that many had hoped that successful Doha talks would signal a new chapter had been reached that would perhaps enable changing the the WTO from within. That remains an ambitious, if naive expectation.
Fair Trade - a concept and movement I fully support - is one thing. It’s a partnership of equals that provides a livelihood to many families, cooperatives and communities throughout the Global South. It’s presently working on a small scale, though, obviously, my hope is that it would replace our current system. A much larger issue is the world economy, in which sudden shifts have rippling effects that can produce extraordinary results (e.g., the current fuel crisis has put fear in most of us, while it has brought record profits to oil companies). The scale is skewed and the pressure is mounting.
A few weeks ago I wrote about last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award recipient, Rogan Gregory. A week later, the Council of Fashion Designers of America announced this year’s ten finalists which include another eco-fashion pioneer, John Patrick.
Many have embraced the eco lifestyle and mainstream designers and businesses have shown that taking on a light tone of green puts money in the bank. Don’t get me wrong, attention on all things green (however washed out and faded) and the conversations that follow are necessary to raise awareness and move beyond the trend stage. But, I’m moved when those real, honest examples shine through showing that it is possible to commit ourselves to ethical practices, that are both socially and environmentally responsible.
“I mean, these pieces are made with love. I can feel it when I look at them. We care about them, people are paid more than a fair wage and I’m able to go forward with good conscience that it’s all ethically produced.”
John Patrick joins those at the forefront of ethical fashion, showing that his label Organic does not compromise ethics for aesthetics. One look at the collection reveals that the John Patrick Organic is driven by design and function. The beautifully tailored line is sophisticated and elegant while intentionally designed to be comfortable and practical enough for repeat use. These are not trendy pieces to flaunt for one season only; instead John Patrick Organic offers design-conscious men and women classic separates to build a sustainable capsule wardrobe.
“The Now is about sustainability, individualism and mindful thought as to how we are living. We can be who we are if we think about it. It takes thought to be a responsible consumer and citizen. The Now Generation has rejected the old school materialism in favor of a new school freedom. Just look at the streets of Williamsburg.”
I couldn’t agree more. Thoughtless consumerism and nihilism are becoming things of the past. Whether driven by social consciousness, environmental awareness, health concerns or economic constraints, many of us have become more thoughtful of our connection to the world and the choices we make. Thankfully, it is becoming more apparent that there is no lack of choice for the ethically minded consumer.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America names this year’s winner on November 17. I know who I am pulling for.
KILI Radio Station, The Voice of the Lakota, celebrates their 25th year on July 31. KILI, located on The Pine Ridge Reservation in South Dakota, is the country’s largest Indian Radio Station and the reservation’s largest consumer of electricity. For the last six years they partnered with Honor the Earth and the Intertribal Council on Utility Policy on a sustainable energy project to replace coal and uranium by harnessing the reservation’s plentiful wind power.
On June 25, 2008 a 65 kilowatt wind turbine was installed in a ceremony that included participation from over 40 tribal members. The Intertribal Council on Utility Policy used the opportunity as a training workshop to provide skills required for green jobs in the wind industry. The turbine will produce roughly 92,171 kWh of power, saving the radio station about $12,000 each year. By using renewable energy to fuel the radio station, KILI can reduce carbon emissions, work towards energy independence and recycle the dollars back into the community.
“Wind energy is the fastest growing energy source in the world, and Native communities have an excellent potential to be a part of that trend. We see the KILI wind turbine as a flagship project, a springboard for a broad, tribal renewable energy initiative,” said Winona LaDuke, Executive Director of Honor the Earth.
The KILI renewable energy project is an inspiring example of what we can accomplish when we dig deeper and work together to focus on the interconnectedness of environmentalism, social justice, economic empowerment, and political power when addressing sustainability. The Pine Ridge reservation is considered to be the country’s poorest area, economically speaking, and KILI’s green energy project will serve as an important investment model to share and replicate. I hope that opportunities in the green economy spread like wildfire in all communities of color and low-income neighborhoods. This is an exciting time in the green movement and I believe we are up to the challenge.
Angela recently appeared on the Martha Stewart show’s “Artisanal Crafts and Foods” segment to demonstrate how angela adams rugs come to be, from generation of the original idea (based on her personal doodles!) to production and finishing. She also covers the system behind the rugs’ intriguing monikers like Mammy and Argyle–they are named for family members and residents of her childhood home in North Haven Island, Maine.
Though modern rug production is not exactly what I had imagined–I was somehow stuck with the image of a woman humming while plucking strings on a loom– the entire process is unexpected and fascinating. Here’s the clip.
We love seeing our products in action. Here’s a picture of Nina L. of Oslo, Norway on a recent trip to Barcelona with her favorite traveling companion, the Shah Rukh Khan bag. You don’t have to be a Bollywood fan to appreciate this poppy sensation, made fair trade in India. Thanks Nina!!
*If you have a pic of yourself with one of our products, send it to us at service at shopequita dot com and we may feature you in a future blog post*
Stock up on your favorite ethical fashion, organic & fair trade bodycare and sustainable home décor at Equita’s mid-summer sale!
For the month of July, save up to 70% off items in the Outlet including select styles by Del Forte Denim, Loomstate, Edun, Angela Adams, Stewart + Brown, Loyale and more.
Enjoy additional discounts on non-sale items, storewide. Use discount code midsummer25 at checkout to save 25% on all regular price merchandise.
**Offer valid now through through July 31st, 2008**
I don’t know how he does it, but there seems to be no stopping Rogan Gregory. Over the last seven years, Gregory has become a sustainable powerhouse forging creative alliances with the likes of Bono and (recently) Michael Stipe along the way.
Driven by design and efficiency, Gregory’s lines all share a common philosophy of sustainability. When asked about his emphasis on eco-fashion, Rogan told Time Out Chicago “That might be what the perception is, but for me it’s really design first. You have to think about what it’s made of, who’s making it, and those all are components to design.”I find it refreshing to see a designer driven by instinct and passion for aesthetics instead of bending to accommodate the trend of the moment. Okay, I am admittedly thrilled that today’s trend is to be eco-conscious and green, but I favor those designers with a solid ethical foundation that will continue pushing boundaries even when the wind blows in another direction. Rogan Gregory is one of those pioneers and as recipient of last year’s prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award he proved that one can achieve a balance between aesthetics and ethics.
A trained and accomplished sculptor and furniture craftsman, Rogan Gregory took the fashion world by storm in 2001 with the debut of his impeccably tailored premium denim line, appropriately labeled, Rogan. “We didn’t start out as an eco-driven line, but had a foundation that was about not being wasteful… I’m kind of efficient by nature.” (Interview via GOOD Magazine.)
Three years after the debut of Rogan, Gregory created Loomstate to prove that organic cotton and traditional manufacturing techniques could be the basis of an edgy brand that put design first. Coveted for the soft raw cotton, signature stitching and nature-inspired graphics, Loomstate (see below) is the go-to brand for organic tees, denim and hoodies and a permanent fixture on the racks at Equita.
Ali Hewson and Bono took note of the collection and partnered with Gregory to create the socially-conscious fashion label Edun (shown below).
Built on principles of respect and fair trade, Edun debuted in 2005 with the mission of replacing aid with equitable trade to find sustainable alternatives for reducing poverty in the developing world and particularly, in Africa.
2005 was a busy year for Gregory. Along with Edun, he introduced Rogan Objects, a line of bespoke industrial-style home furnishings, and A Litl Betr, his luxurious line of exquisite suits, cashmere and silk sweaters and accessories. Rogan Objects is handcrafted from reclaimed materials including cold-formed flat bar steel, hand-blown glass and found wood. With A Litl Betr, Gregory showcases the same signature artesanal qualities that we adore in his designs, but adds a little sophisticated polish. Like Loomstate, the line gives a nod to traditional manufacturing methods. The collection is woven on a 1930’s loom using textured materials like pure indigo linen denim selvage.
With a list that reads like Rogan Gregory’s, by 2007 I might have booked a one-way ticket to Costa Rica for some much needed sun and surf. He is obviously not one to slow down and was the latest designer to collaborate with Target for their affordable Go International series. The Rogan for Target collection debuted on May 28 for a limited run of one month. Through the collaboration, Gregory aimed to bring eco-chic to the masses, demanding that all the cotton used in the collection be 100% organic.
Photos: Rogan Gregory by Mark Mahaney for GOOD Magazine; Clothing images by Equita
The 2008 Independent Handbag Designer Awards were announced late last month in New York, bringing instant recognition to a handful of wickedly talented designers. I’m delighted to tell you that Helen Marcoschamer, designer for Ecoist, the maker of a wide array of enviro-friendly bags and a fixture on the Equita shelves, took home the award for Best Green Handbag. (Nazly Villamizar’s design, also from Ecoist, was a runner-up.)
Helen’s winning design was The Portfolio (shown above), a structured bag made of intricately woven, 100% repurposed candy wrappers. Handmade in Mexico and Peru, the raw material comes in the form of food packaging discarded from factories due to misprints, overages, or discontinued lines that would otherwise end up in landfills. The plastic packaging is then cut, folded into straps, weaved, and sewn.
Watch Indie Handbag Designer Awards founder Emily Blumenthal present the winning bags on CBS The Early Show.
MORE ABOUT ECOIST
Ecoist bags are designed to carry the company’s hefty mission: to make fashion forward accessories that respect the environment and the lives of the artisans who create them.
Non-biodegradable materials such as candy wrappers, food packages and billboards are recycled, becoming the fabric used to create incredibly well designed, functional products. To help reduce global warming, the company works with Trees for the Future to a plant tree for every bag sold. Trees are planted in areas around the world suffering from deforestation, including India, Uganda, Haiti, Mexico and the US.
On the labor front, Ecoist opts for manufacturing quality and social responsibility. All of their bags are handcrafted and are ethically-sourced through a network of Fair Trade cooperatives in Mexico, Peru, Chile, Brazil and India.
Find the Ecoist collection at Equita. Price range: $24 - $158
Paul Newman is no stranger to philanthropy. Since 1982, he and the Newman’s Own Foundation have donated all after tax profits and royalties — totaling over $200 million — to charities around the world.
According to recent reports, between 2005-2006 Paul Newman transfered his ownership of Newman’s Own company to Newman’s Own Foundation, resulting in a charitable contribution of approximately $120 million dollars. This generous gift tops the actor’s 2006 personal contribution of $8,746,500 to to support organizations focused on children, hurricane relief in the Gulf Coast, education and the arts.
Brought to you by the (opinionated) people at Equita, Nitty Gritty is a space for news, information and dialogue on The Essentials for Ethical Living: environmentalism, green design, the local economy, fair trade, social consciousness, and, yes, ethical shopping.